The day dawned sunny but hazy (it had been getting hazier by the day all week), so we took off north, heading to Chillon via Morzine, St-Jean-d’Aulps, Évian-les-Bains, and finally across the Swiss border at St-Gingolph.
We hadn’t had a lunch out at all, so we looked in the Michelin guide for a nice place serving traditional French plat and found a likely candidate in Restaurant de L'Etoile in Noville, a little village in the Rhône river valley just where the river meets Lake Geneva. High mountains slope steeply down to this narrow valley, which is crammed with crops – the soil must be especially rich because every last square inch was cultivated – corn, winter squash and pumpkins, hardy greens, onions – it smelled great!
The village was literally in the middle of all this, and after a detour due to road construction down one-way lanes through fields, we found the restaurant in the middle of the village. It was just what we were looking for – small, full of locals (as was usual, we were the only English-speakers in the place) serving great food:
- Mozzarella with tomato pudding-like thing, potato and black olive tapenade with a watercress and shaved celery salad (Valyn) and terrine of foie gras (Craig)
- Small pan-fried steak with mixed veggies and rice (Valyn) and lamb chops with mixed veggies and hash browns that looked EXACTLY like what you get at Waffle House
- Lemon sorbet (shared)
|Château de Chillon on the shore of Lac Léman|
|View from the clock-tower in Chillon|
|Looking out an archer’s window|
|Semi-circular tower, for the defence of the Château, with the moat below|
|Bonivard’s prison, which Byron immortalized in “The Prisoner of Chillon”|
|“Emergency Exit” onto Lac Léman in the event of the castle being over-run|